22 June 2006

leo carillo



this was one of my favorite places to surf in southern california. why?

1. point break, anchored by that huge rock

2. abundant wildlife - dolphins, fish, seals... but beware of the mussels that give you little cuts.

3. north of malibu, away from la la. less crowds, more beautiful.

4. clean water rating: A+. Venice Beach: F, Malibu: F. It's nice not swallowing someone's fecal matter when you are catching waves

5. awesome memories with friends

k, that's all. one of these summers in the next several years I will make it back...

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